It really is called that … this municipal cemitério has a grand entrance. The street opposite ends in a semicircular crescent, now obscured by commercial development. The shops specialise in antique furniture, appropriately enough, whereas the porch shelters the destitute.
On busy Rua Cardeal Arcoverde – named for the first cardinal born in South America
Begun in 1920, since both the Cemitério da Consolação and the Cemitério do Araçá were full, the Cemitério São Paulo extended the opportunity for the socially ambitious literally to build on their reputation with grand tombs and statuary by established sculptors.
Just past the entrance there’s a well-kept memorial to the combatants of the 1932 Sao Paulo Constitutional Revolution, showing the city’s crest.
Their inspiration the law, LEX
The gate is a neo-classical composition, matching the chapel and the records office in style if not in colour scheme.
Both the sober entrance framing the city and…
… the chapel of rest flanked by funerary cypresses show us peace above, PAX
A crucifix stretched out in the sun beside the records office
You’re struck by the profusion of statuary, especially of the human figure in every attitude of grief.
Unusually strong male statue strikingly installed
The sloping site positively writhes with humanity in vistas and avenues.
Metropolis and necropolis
The cemetery is a welcome patch of nature in its urban surroundings, providing quiet, fresh air and cool shade, though as in the surrounding city, every available space is used.
Niches in the perimeter walls
While there are some grave sites for professional groups …
The final curtain
Mausoleum for nuns of the Brazilian order Missionarias de Jesus Crucificado
… and for individuals …
Italian first conductor of Sao Paulo Conservatorium watched over by van Beethoven
… the vast majority are family vaults, and focus on their dynasties from both sides of the family, emphasising the male line.
Individuals pass on, we continue
Their names are from Italy, Lebanon, Japan and Armenia as well as from Portugal. The iconography is largely Roman Catholic, with classical and Masonic allusions too –
Cristo Redentor, the Good Shepherd at the Door, the broken column
Masonic temple in miniature
Even Shinto veneration of one’s ancestors appears in syncretist Brazil
– in this context, meaning accrues readily.
” … shall be raised indestructible.”
Tile work makes an occasional appearance.
Mother and child, family tomb
Statuary in metal and in stone is finely wrought.
Shepherd boy and charges
Colour and texture effectively deployed
Marble crisply carved, whether in close-up …
… or complete piece
The mausoleums are well built, with careful detailing.
Drainage for planter boxes
Some measures have been taken against the ravages of the twentieth century – air pollution, for example – and there are almost no graffiti.
Art Nouveau work with near a century’s accumulation of grime
This angel remains snow white
Some memorials were prettily and deliberately conservative in the 1920s.
Angel in bas-relief under Romanesque arch with acanthus-leaf capitals
Some embraced the future with a will.
Memorial to a son in the Italian air force
Some symbols are updated in style, or used in a less obviously religious way.
The Via Dolorosa winds around a funerary vase
Image of the statue of Nossa Senhora da Conceição Aparecida, patronne of Brazil
Young woman enveloped by a stiff cloak – perhaps alluding to the venerated statue
The worship of Mary is a recurring theme in Brazilian Catholicism, with appearances as the Virgin and as the Mother of God.
From the life of Mary in bronze, the family name and “Ave Maria” carved high on the obelisk
Modern mother and child
Obelisk or chapel, traditional or modern, family or individual, even Christian or not, all kinds are gathered here.
For a priest, a chapel …
… complete with altar, Islamic inscription, Candomble offering … ?
… and angels above
Small but functional family chapel
Family tomb by leading Brazilian sculptor Victor Brecheret
Jesuit tomb for Maluf family – perhaps less keen to highlight construction now
(See http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-latin-america-20373040 )
Sure of salvation through living right …
Traditional grouping with traditional message
… or trusting in God at the last trump …
At St Peter’s gate
… when the final preparations are made,
Fear no more the heat o’ the sun
a door does seem an appropriate symbol.
Chapel of rest
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